Last updated on May 17, 2025
We ended up in Split twice on planned layovers – and it turned out to be one of the best decisions we made. It only took a couple of walks through the Old Town (and a bite or two of the local food) for me to fall in love with this gorgeous city on the Dalmatian coast. I loved it so much, in fact, that I came back for the third time – this time with my parents in tow.
Split is a perfect mix of ancient history, stunning sea views, and great food – and while a couple of days is ideal to soak it all in, even 24 hours is enough to get a real feel for the place.
So, whether you’re visiting on a layover like we first did or just passing through, here’s my short and sweet guide to the best things to do, see, and eat in Split. From Roman ruins and waterfront strolls to specialty coffee spots and easy day trips, this one’s got you covered.
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Disclaimer: Before we get started, just a quick heads-up – Croatia officially joined the Euro zone on 1st January 2023. We visited Split in August 2021, September 2022, and again in September 2023 – so we’ve seen the city both before and after the switch. While the recommendations in this guide are still very much valid, do keep in mind that some prices have already crept up since the euro was introduced, and they may continue to do so. Now that we’ve got that out of the way – let’s explore Split!
Where to stay in Split
Indigo Inn Rooms
If you’re visiting Split on a budget, Indigo Inn Rooms* is a brilliant choice. We first stayed there in August 2021 and couldn’t believe how good the location was for the price – just €60 a night at the time! When we looked it up again in 2022, the prices had gone up a bit, but it was still fairly affordable, especially outside of peak season.
This small, family-run B&B is just a 5-minute walk from both the ferry terminal and the main bus station. Fun fact from the owner: the building used to house the Slobodna Dalmacija (Free Dalmatia) newspaper, which first went to print in 1943. Whether you’re heading into the Old Town or hopping on a ferry to one of the nearby islands, it’s the perfect base.
There’s also a bakery just downstairs and a supermarket nearby, so you can easily save a bit on breakfast. I was slightly worried it might feel a bit cramped or lack privacy, but both the bedroom and private bathroom were surprisingly spacious and quiet. The only thing to note is that it’s a little tricky to find, so I was glad the owner met us there.
We would’ve happily rebooked it in 2022 – if I hadn’t come across a one-of-a-kind spot that completely stole the show…
Private apartments in Diocletian’s Palace
The moment I spotted these private apartments in Diocletian’s Palace*, I thought – wait, can you actually do that?!
A quick bit of Googling confirmed that since the original palace no longer exists as a standalone structure, what’s now referred to as “the Palace” is actually Split’s Old Town area. So yes, you can technically say you stayed within the palace walls – and I hit that ‘Reserve’ button faster than you can say Diocletian.
We thought it’d be the perfect way to round off our 3-week Balkan trip – and we were absolutely right. For such a unique experience, it was also much more affordable than we expected, at just €100 per night.
Of course, you can book more luxurious places too, but those will easily set you back double or triple that. For us, it was all about the experience, so we were perfectly happy with our tiny (but memorable) room.
The decor was… eclectic, to say the least – think gold, satin, Audrey Hepburn prints, and a little bit of everything in between. But the real highlight was the private terrace on top of the palace walls, overlooking the Iron Gate (which, unfortunately, was under restoration during our stay).
Still, once the construction workers packed up for the day, it became the perfect little spot to sip some local wine and people-watch from above. Like a lot of places in the Old Town, it’s a bit tricky to find – even Google Maps struggled. But ask the host for detailed directions in advance and you’ll be just fine.
Apartment Antica
For our third trip to Split, I brought my parents along to celebrate their birthdays and wedding anniversary.
They’re not exactly the traveller type, so I really wanted to find somewhere they’d feel comfortable and at home. I came across a lovely flat in a quiet residential area*, about a 10-minute walk from the Riva promenade, and it turned out to be perfect for us.
It had two bedrooms, a kitchen, a big table outside, and even a barbecue – which we definitely would’ve made use of if we’d stayed a bit longer. Instead, we grabbed pastries from a nearby bakery and made our own little breakfasts in the sunshine with coffee.
I’m pretty sure the owners lived upstairs, though they had a separate entrance, so we had plenty of privacy. The whole stay came to €210 for two nights, which felt like a great deal for the space and location.
Best things to do in Split
Stroll along the Splitska Riva promenade
As soon as you arrive in Split, you’ll find yourself on the Riva – the city’s buzzing promenade lined with palm trees, running the length of the Old Town. It’s always full of life, no matter the time of day.
You can sit on one of the benches and watch ferries and cruise ships come and go, or just take in the atmosphere and do a bit of people-watching. If you’re up for an adventure, you’ll also find plenty of boat tour stands dotted along the waterfront.
And in the evening, it’s the perfect place for a walk or a drink with a view – there are loads of bars, cafés, and restaurants to choose from, all with a front-row seat to the sea.
Explore Split Old Town
Split’s Old Town is centred around Diocletian’s Palace – a massive Roman palace built in the 4th century AD as a retirement home for Emperor Diocletian.
These days, it makes up nearly half of the Old Town, so even if you’re not trying to explore it, you’ll probably find yourself wandering through it anyway.
With its buzzing streets and busy cafés, it’s hard to believe this was once the peaceful grounds of a palace.
Between the narrow cobblestone alleys, ancient stone walls, and all the gates leading in and out, it can feel a bit like trying to find your way through a maze.
But that’s part of the fun – half the time, you don’t even know what gem you’ll stumble across around the next corner. It’s one of those places that’s perfect for aimless wandering, and you could easily spend hours soaking it all in.
Visit the historical sites inside Diocletian’s Palace
If you want to explore the ancient interiors of what used to be Diocletian’s Palace, you’ll need to buy a ticket. Head to the Peristyle (the central courtyard), where you’ll spot signs pointing to the ticket office. The complex includes 5 different sites: the Crypt, the Baptistery (also known as the Temple of Jupiter), Split Cathedral, the Treasury, and the Bell Tower.
You can either buy individual tickets for each attraction (they ranged from €3 to €7 in 2023), or choose one of 5 ticket packages depending on how many – and which – sites you want to visit. We paid around €10.60 for the largest package back when Croatia still used the kuna, but as of 2023, it was €15.
To be completely honest, the only parts that truly impressed me were the Cathedral of Saint Domnius – built within what was originally Diocletian’s Mausoleum – and the Bell Tower, which (after a bit of a climb) rewards you with stunning panoramic views over the city and the Adriatic Sea.
And here’s a fun fact for you: the cathedral is the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that’s still in use and has remained mostly unchanged in design since the 7th century!
Head underground to explore the palace cellars
You can also visit the cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, which were originally built to support the emperor’s private apartments that once stood above them. They’re one of the best-preserved complexes of their kind in the world, and you can enter either through the Bronze Gate along the Riva or via a staircase from the Peristyle.
Entry was €7 in 2023, and when I visited, there was a small sculpture exhibition inside. I also spotted a few posters for concerts and other events they host down there – which would definitely be a unique experience!
Just a little heads-up: aside from the structure itself and a few art pieces, there’s not that much to see. But honestly, that’s part of what makes it so fascinating. It’s not every day you get to wander through an ancient underground complex built by the Romans.
Oh, and if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you might recognise the palace cellars as Daenerys’s dragon-training lair. Even though we’ve been to other filming locations – Dubrovnik and Mdina – I still haven’t seen a single episode (I know, I know). Thankfully, the Internet always comes through with these fun facts. 😉
And here’s a little wholesome story for you…
On our first trip back in 2021, we spotted this little cat chilling in the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace, next to an empty food can. The poor thing had a swollen nose – probably from a bee sting – and just looked so sad it honestly broke our hearts. We didn’t have any food on us, and all the nearby shops had already closed.
So the following year, we came prepared. Armed with cat food and hope, we made it our mission to try and find the same kitty again… and to our absolute joy, we did! It looked so much healthier and happier this time, happily munched on our treats, and got plenty of scratchies as a bonus.
Step back in time at Diocletian’s Dream
When I spotted Diocletian’s Dream as one of the top-rated attractions on TripAdvisor, I knew straight away I had to see it for myself. Even better, it just so happened to be about a two-minute walk from the second flat we stayed in (I haven’t shared that one since I’m not sure they still take bookings). One evening, I decided to pop in and check it out – and I’m so glad I did!
It cost €12 at the time, and the experience was brilliant. You get a VR headset and literally walk through a reconstructed version of ancient Split, seeing Diocletian’s Palace as it would have looked in its prime. It was just me in the session, which made it even cooler, and the whole thing lasted maybe around 20 minutes. As you wander through, there’s a narrated story that explains the history and brings everything to life.
If Roman history interests you even a little (or if you just want to see what Split looked like 1,700 years ago), this is such a fun and unique experience – and a great little way to break up your sightseeing.
Take in the views from Marjan Hill
If you’re up for a bit of a climb (and some seriously beautiful views), Marjan Hill is a must-visit in Split. You can reach it really easily from the Old Town – just find the set of stairs right next to Pizzeria Bokamorra (which you can read more about later in this guide).
It’s about 300 steps to the first main viewpoint, and it should only take you around 10–15 minutes, depending on your pace. The view from the top is absolutely worth the effort – you’ll get sweeping panoramas over the entire city of Split and the surrounding islands.
If you fancy going further, Marjan Hill is a huge park full of shaded walking trails, old stone chapels, scenic lookout points, and picnic spots. You’ll also find a small zoo and a botanical garden tucked away among the trees. It’s a lovely peaceful escape from the city, and you can easily spend an afternoon wandering around if you have the time.
And if you’re a cat lover, here’s another reason to visit: Marjan Hill is home to a few resident kitties who seem to have claimed the best viewpoints for themselves. We found one lounging on a ledge with the most incredible backdrop – and yes, he was happy to accept some head scratches!
Spend some time at the beach
If you’re visiting Split during the warmer months, spending a few hours at the beach is an absolute must. The most popular beaches are Bačvice, Žnjan, and Kasjuni Beach – the one we decided to check out.
We spotted a little tourist train parked outside the Church and Convent of St. Francis and thought, why not? It turned out to be a fun way to get to the beach! I can’t remember the exact price, but I’m pretty sure it was under €10 per person for a one-way ride.
Our driver was lovely and even pointed out a few sights along the way, like the former villa of Yugoslav president Josip Broz Tito. After a few hours soaking up the sun, we ordered an Uber back to the Old Town, which cost around €6.
Kasjuni Beach itself felt way less touristy and crowded compared to the beaches closer to the city centre. There’s also a beach bar where you can grab a drink – although fair warning, the prices were definitely on the higher side. Still, it’s the perfect spot if you want to swim, chill out, and escape the busy streets for a while.
Visit the neighbouring Croatian islands
Split isn’t just a stunning destination in itself – it’s also a great jumping-off point for exploring more of Croatia (and even beyond). Regular ferries connect the city with nearby islands and other Croatian towns, and there’s even a weekly service to southern Italy. So, if you’re up for a bit of island hopping or fancy a change of pace, Split makes an ideal base.
On our first visit, we took a day trip to the nearby island of Brač. If you’re thinking of doing the same and want to know how long the ferry takes, how much it costs, or what to do once you’re there, I’ve put together a full guide to Bol that covers everything. Next on my Croatia bucket list: Hvar and Korčula – so keep an eye out for those guides in the future!
Go on a day trip to Krka National Park
Another brilliant day trip idea from Split is Krka National Park. I knew I wanted to treat my parents to a little adventure for their birthdays, and it was a toss-up between Krka and Plitvice Lakes. In the end, we went for Krka – and it was the perfect choice for an easygoing day with stunning scenery.
You can book a guided tour from Split (which I’d definitely recommend over renting a car). We booked this day tour* and had a fantastic experience.
You can either choose an option without entry tickets and buy them on the spot, or go for one where the guide sorts it all for you. We picked the second one, but tickets were actually €10 cheaper if you paid on the bus, so keep that in mind!
Krka is famous for its beautiful waterfalls and for housing one of the world’s oldest hydroelectric plants, opened just two days after the one at Niagara Falls.
Our guide Lovro was fantastic – he shared fun facts about Croatia, kept everyone organised with a WhatsApp group, and gave us enough free time to explore without ever feeling rushed (or bored).
For around £200/€230 for the three of us, the tour included transport, entry tickets to Krka National Park, a boat ride from Krka to the town of Skradin (where you can swim, grab a coffee, or visit a fortress), and a visit to Sladić Winery for wine, cheese, and olive oil tastings.
We also paid an extra €8 each for a local snack board – which was well worth it!
Honestly, it was one of the highlights of our trip, and I’d highly recommend it if you have a day to spare.
Best restaurants to visit in Split
Misto
If you’re after Dalmatian street food with a modern twist, Misto is the place to go in Split. We stumbled upon it completely by chance during our first visit – we’d just arrived from Mostar (after what was honestly one of the worst bus journeys ever – more on that in my Mostar guide), absolutely starving, and looking for the closest decent meal near our flat.
Seafood’s not really my thing, so the idea of ordering a burger or sandwich instead instantly won me over. I went for the sandwich version of a traditional Dalmatian Pašticada – slow-roasted pork marinated in Prošek wine (you can learn more about this type of wine in my Bol guide).
Mac went for one of their burgers, and we also shared some aubergine croquettes with tzatziki. The food came out quickly, and we polished it off just as fast – it was that good.
Pizzeria Bokamorra
This place had been on my Split bucket list since before our very first trip, so I was buzzing to finally check it out – and even happier when it totally lived up to the hype.
It’s the kind of restaurant where the decor alone could get it trending on Instagram (gold-tiled pizza oven, blue velvet booths, vintage posters on the walls – you get the vibe), but what really makes you want to come back is the food.
And come back we did. Mac said it was the best pizza he’s ever had – and coming from him, that’s saying a lot – so we made sure to squeeze in one last visit before flying home.
The owners went all the way to Naples to learn the ropes and then put their own spin on the process. What you get is a Neapolitan-style pizza with a thinner base and soft, pillowy crust. My favourite was the Tartufizza, made with black truffle cheese and black truffle-infused olive oil.
But the real star of the show are their dessert pizzas. I know sweet pizzas can be a bit controversial and might not sound all that appealing – but trust me on this one. I love anything that has white chocolate in it, and their version with white chocolate, raspberries, and pistachios was pure heaven.
Yes, it’s definitely on the pricier side – but you get what you pay for. They use high-quality alcohol in their drinks, and the pizza ingredients are either imported from Italy, locally sourced, or grown themselves. If I lived nearby, I’d probably spend my afternoons working my way through the whole menu.
So when I came back with my parents, I knew this was the one place I absolutely had to take them – and they loved it just as much!
Konoba Kod Joze
I remembered reading somewhere that Konoba Kod Joze was one of those places popular with the locals – the kind of spot where drivers would grab a meal while waiting for their tourist groups to return. Honestly, that sounded like the best kind of endorsement to me. So when I realised it was practically on our doorstep, we had to pop in one afternoon.
We ordered the Dalmatian Pašticada and some local beers to go with it. Pašticada is a traditional Dalmatian dish made of beef that’s been marinated and slow-cooked in a rich sauce with red wine, prunes, and spices, usually served with homemade gnocchi. It’s one of those meals that feels like a warm hug – and this one definitely delivered.
We headed there around 4 pm, and it was really quiet, which made it an even better find. So if you’re looking for authentic Croatian food without the crowds, Konoba Kod Joze is a great shout.
Buffet Fife
If you’re looking for traditional, hearty Dalmatian food without straying too far from the city centre, Buffet Fife is a great choice. It’s a casual, no-frills eatery just a short stroll from the Riva promenade – and another spot that’s a firm favourite with locals.
I went for the black risotto (probably my favourite Croatian dish), while my parents opted for some grilled fish, and we loved every bite. The portions were generous, the atmosphere was lively, and the whole place had that relaxed, unpretentious charm that makes you feel right at home.
Fun little side note: while we were there, someone who was clearly a big deal in Croatia was sitting just a few tables away. Staff kept coming up to ask for photos – which, if you ask me, is usually a pretty good sign that the food’s worth it too!
Luka Ice Cream & Cakes
Luka Ice Cream & Cakes was actually a spot my dad found while doing his research – and apparently, it’s where the locals go to get their ice cream fix. Naturally, we had to check it out! It’s in a quieter courtyard behind the Croatian National Theatre, and it turned out to be such a great find.
The portions were absolutely massive – so much so that my dad thought we’d somehow ordered him extra scoops by accident. I went for the lavender ice cream, and it was absolutely delicious – definitely worth the hype.
Plus, there are a few stray cats that call the area home (they even marked it on Google Maps as a stray cat gathering spot). They also have a little café inside if you’d prefer to sit down with a coffee and dessert.
We also tried Sladoledarnica Emiliana, which is a big tourist favourite, but honestly? I liked Luka better – both for the scoop size, the flavour, and the fact that you don’t have to queue forever just to get your hands on it.
Kruščić Bakery
Kruščić Bakery is a little artisan bakery right behind the fish market, and it’s definitely worth seeking out. They bake their breads and pastries in small batches, using only simple, natural ingredients – no artificial conditioners or preservatives in sight.
It’s a small place, but it’s really popular with locals, and apparently it’s one of the few spots where you can get traditional Croatian pastries that aren’t easy to find elsewhere.
It’s best to head there early, though, as they close at 2 pm – and when I popped in around noon, there were only a few leftovers to choose from.
That said, everything I tried was so good, I immediately understood why they sell out so fast. I’d happily make the effort to go earlier next time just to have a bigger variety to pick from!
D16 Coffee
If you’re after a good specialty coffee spot in Split, D16 Coffee is a solid and popular choice. Their main café on Dominisova 16 is slightly tucked away from the busiest corners of the Old Town, but don’t let that fool you – it was always buzzing with people whenever we stopped by.
They’ve divided the space into two areas: the main seating area where you place your order, and a quieter one directly opposite the entrance – perfect for remote work or just taking a break from the Old Town crowds.
If you enjoy their coffee, you can also pick up some beans from their small-batch roastery, including their signature Dominis blend. The only slight letdown for me was the lack of cakes – just plain croissants and cookies when we visited. But honestly, that’s a small price to pay for a properly good cup of coffee in Split!
Meštar o’ Kave
Another specialty coffee spot we discovered on our 2022 trip to Split was Meštar o’ Kave. While they only serve coffee to go, it’s absolutely worth it – especially if you happen to stay in the same flat we did, since it’s quite literally downstairs. We ended up saving a bit on breakfast by grabbing pastries from a nearby bakery and pairing them with a cup from here.
Once again, Mac declared it one of the best coffees he’s ever had – and since we’re both pretty serious about our coffee, that says a lot about the quality of their brews.
The best part? Our cappuccinos were just 13 HRK each (around £1.50/€1.70), which is a steal compared to what you sometimes pay elsewhere for something average at best. So if you’re trying to explore Split on a budget, run – don’t walk – here!
Tinel Specialty Coffee Shop
On the trip with my parents, I was determined to try as many of Split’s specialty coffee shops as possible – and Tinel Specialty Coffee Shop was the closest one to where we were staying. We popped in on our first morning for some coffees and almond croissants, and it was such a good call.
One thing I quickly noticed was how fast the pastries were disappearing – so unless they bake more batches later in the day, it’s probably best to get there early if you want the best selection. I would’ve happily gone back for another round, as everything we tried was really, really good.
kava2
Another specialty coffee shop we visited was kava2 – and honestly, it probably ended up being my favourite one. We stopped by for coffees and almond croissants (which have always been one of my go-to pastry orders), and I was so happy to see that most coffee shops in Split had them on offer.
It’s hard to explain, but if I didn’t already know both kava2 and Tinel were specialty coffee shops, I’d say kava2 had even more of that vibe. You know the one: terrazzo coffee tables, minimalist interiors, a cool, clean menu on the wall.
We loved the coffee so much we actually ended up coming back twice – and if I only had one day in Split, this would definitely be my first stop for a caffeine fix.
How would you spend your ideal day in Split?
