As you scroll through photos of Italy on Instagram or Pinterest, there are two that seem to come up again and again. The first is that insanely photogenic beach in a narrow cove between dramatic cliffs, with bright turquoise water and an old town sitting right above it. The second is a restaurant set inside a cave overlooking the sea, with soft romantic lighting and waves crashing below.
Once social media took off, both spread everywhere. Even if you’ve never heard of Puglia, chances are you’ve seen them – maybe even saved them – and wondered whether they were actually real, or just another case of the internet getting a bit carried away (the joys of AI, right?).
Well, not only are they very much real, but you’ll find both in Polignano a Mare, a small town just 30 minutes from Bari. If you’re short on time, it’s an easy day trip – and you can even combine it with nearby Monopoli.
In this guide, I’ll show you how to spend a day in Polignano a Mare, including the best things to do and where to stop for lunch and dessert.
Let’s get started!
How to get to Polignano a Mare
The easiest place to travel from is Bari, which is one of the main transport hubs in Puglia. From Bari Centrale, it’s just a 30-minute train ride to Polignano a Mare.
As with the rest of our travels around Puglia, we booked our tickets on the Trenitalia website, but you can just as easily buy them at the station from a ticket machine or at the ticket office.
If you’re coming from further south, it takes about 50 minutes from Brindisi or around 1 hour 20 minutes from Lecce. So unless you’re arriving from outside the region or planning to explore smaller towns along the way, I wouldn’t really bother renting a car for this one.
Much of the historic centre in Polignano a Mare is a limited traffic zone, which means you can’t drive in unless you’re a resident. Because of that, most places to stay there don’t have direct parking. You’ll usually need to leave your car outside the centre and either walk in or use a paid car park.
Where to stay in Polignano a Mare
Building on the previous point, I wouldn’t necessarily choose Polignano a Mare as a base. It’s one of the most touristy spots in Puglia, which means prices tend to be higher, and there’s not a huge amount to do beyond a day trip or a short overnight stay.
That being said, I would actually consider staying for a night next time. It gives you the chance to enjoy the town in the evening and also try some of the restaurants that only open later – or even book a dinner at the famous cave restaurant.
You can check the available accommodation for your dates below:
Best things to do in Polignano a Mare
Go to the beach
If you’re visiting Polignano a Mare, chances are you’ll want to head to its most famous beach – Cala Porto, also known as Lama Monachile.
As you walk along the main street, you’ll reach Ponte Borbonico, a bridge with a great view over the beach. Just next to it, you’ll also spot a smaller bridge called Ponte Romano. Right by it, there are stairs leading down into a tunnel – that’s the way to get to Cala Porto.
However, there are a few things worth keeping in mind before you go. It gets very crowded, so I’d recommend heading there as early as possible. Because of its location between the cliffs, it also loses the sun quite early in the day. And it’s not a sandy beach – it’s all pebbles, so walking barefoot isn’t the most comfortable (water shoes are definitely a good idea).
Every year, Polignano a Mare also hosts the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series, where divers jump from heights of almost 30 metres into the water below. We missed it by just a few days, but we still saw a few people jumping in anyway! I haven’t seen the dates for this year yet, but if you’re planning to go, it’s worth booking your accommodation well in advance.
If you’re after something a bit quieter, you can head to places like Lido Cala Paura, Ponte dei Lapilli, or Porto Cavallo. Near Cala Paura, there’s also Grottone, an enclosed rocky spot that feels a bit like a natural swimming pool. We tend to prefer sandy beaches for relaxing, so we didn’t spend much time here, but it’s a great area for swimming and diving thanks to the clear water.
Visit one of the panoramic terraces
If you’re after that postcard view of Lama Monachile, there’s one terrace in the old town that’s the spot for it.
There are a few viewpoints along this stretch of the cliffs – including Belvedere Terrazza Santo Stefano – and you might also come across the name Balconata sul Mare (Balcony overlooking the sea) online. I’m still not entirely sure whether that second name refers to the whole group of viewpoints around that area, or just the most famous one.
To get to the exact terrace where we took our photos, head down Via Porto. You’ll find the entrance just next to the poetry steps (more on those in a second). On Google Maps, it shows up as Belvedere su Lama Monachile – and it really does give you the best view over the beach and the cliffs.
One tip: try to get there earlier in the day. As I just mentioned, the beach below falls into shade quite quickly because of the cliffs, so the light isn’t as nice for photos later on. It also gets much busier, which makes it harder to get a clean shot without people in the frame.
Walk around the town
Once you arrive in Polignano a Mare and get close to the main bridge, you’ll spot an arch on your right called Arco Marchesale. It leads straight into the old town – and it’s well worth taking your time to wander around once you’re through.
The heart of Polignano’s old town is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. This is where you’ll find the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Palazzo dell’Orologio (the Clock Palace).
What makes it a bit different is the clock on top – it dates back to the 19th century and still gets wound by hand using ropes. Right below the clock, you’ll also see a statue of San Vito, the town’s patron saint. There’s also a smaller Church of Purgatory nearby, although it wasn’t open when we visited.
Here’s what the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption looks like inside:
As we walked around, we came across a few really beautiful artisan shops – even the souvenirs felt a bit more special than in other towns.
One place in particular caught my eye, selling gorgeous ceramics (which I always struggle to resist). If I had more space in my suitcase (and at home), I definitely would’ve bought something. I didn’t catch the name, but I’m pretty sure it was along Via Mulini or Vico San Martino, just after you walk through the arch.
Follow the poetry trail
One of the nicest ways to explore Polignano’s old town is by following the poetry you’ll find painted across stairways, doors, and walls.
This tradition started in 1992 with Ezio Guido Lupori, a former salesman from Bari who left his old life behind and moved to Polignano in 1984. He was a poet himself, and he wanted to share that love of literature with others, so he began painting verses and aphorisms around the town (always with the owners’ permission).
He signed his work as Guido Il Flâneur – “flâneur” being a French word for someone who wanders through the city, simply observing life around them. Some of the phrases come from well-known writers, while others are his own.
His most famous work is Vicolo della Poesia, a staircase near the terrace I mentioned earlier, but you’ll come across his words all over the old town if you keep your eyes open. Over time, he became a bit of a local character – people would often spot him around town reading, or even out in the sea, as he loved swimming year-round, even in winter.
Sadly, Guido passed away in November 2024, but he left behind something both locals and visitors still connect with – giving locals something to reflect on, and tourists something to photograph, even if they don’t always understand the words.
See the statue of Domenico Modugno
As you walk across the bridge connecting both sides of Polignano, you’ll spot a statue of a man with his arms outstretched, with the Adriatic Sea behind him.
That’s Domenico Modugno, one of Italy’s most famous singers, who was born right here in Polignano a Mare. And even if the name doesn’t sound familiar, I’m pretty sure you’ve heard his most famous song – Nel blu dipinto di blu, better known as Volare.
He won the Sanremo Music Festival with it in 1958, picked up two Grammy awards, sold over 22 million copies, and later represented Italy at Eurovision, where he came third. The statue captures that iconic pose from his live performance.
If you keep walking around the old town, you can also spot lyrics from Volare hanging above Via Roma as part of the street decorations.
Right behind the statue, there’s a set of steps called Scalinata Volare that lead down to Pietra Piatta – a flat rock where you can get some amazing views of Cala Porto and the cliffside houses.
It’s directly opposite the terrace I mentioned earlier, so you get a slightly different angle of the same view. I think this spot is much better for photos, though, and less crowded too!
Fondazione Pino Pascali
If you’re into modern art, Polignano a Mare is also home to the region’s only contemporary art museum – Fondazione Pino Pascali.
It’s named after Pino Pascali, who was born here in Polignano a Mare and worked as an artist, sculptor, and set designer. He became one of the key figures of the Arte Povera movement in the 1960s, and was known for creating quirky, slightly unexpected pieces using simple, everyday materials.
Inside, you’ll find a permanent collection of his work, along with temporary exhibitions featuring contemporary artists from Puglia.
It’s currently open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm, and then again from 4 to 8 pm. Tickets cost €5.
Go on a cave boat tour
I definitely saved the best for last… you really can’t leave Polignano without doing a cave boat tour.
Most tours last around 2 hours, and there are plenty of options run by local companies. This is the one we chose – and we absolutely loved it:
It starts at €30 per person (we paid €40 each last July). The tour includes a small bag of local Puglian snacks called taralli, which are like little ring-shaped breadsticks, and some sparkling wine. It’s more of a shot than a full glass, but still a really nice touch.
Over those two hours, you’ll head into a bunch of caves along the coastline, including one they jokingly call the McDonald’s Cave:
You’ll also see Lama Monachile from a completely different perspective, and get up close to the famous Grotta Palazzese restaurant from the water, which was definitely my favourite part!
At the end, there’s some time to swim near the marina, so it’s worth bringing your swimwear and a towel. However, there’s no pressure – you can just stay on the boat (and go for a second round of wine if there’s any left), which is exactly what I did. 😉
The tour starts at Cala Ponte Marina, about a 30-minute walk from the centre. It’s actually a really nice walk, as you pass a few other beaches and some incredible villas along the way.
If you’d rather not walk, you can take one of the tuk tuks from the centre. Just keep in mind that getting one on the way back might take a bit longer, as they’re not always waiting there. The driver quoted us €5 per person – not the cheapest, but definitely worth it after a few hours of exploring.
Other boat tour options
If you’d like to check other available options, you can do so below. Just make sure to double-check the departure point, as not all tours leave from the same marina.
Where to eat in Polignano a Mare
The Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella
One thing to know about Polignano a Mare is that it’s sometimes called la Città del Gelato – the city of ice cream. You’ll find plenty of gelaterias here, but there’s one place you really shouldn’t miss.
The Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella is a bit of an institution in Polignano, and has been serving gelato and other specialties since 1935.
Locals love their gelato con panna (with whipped cream on top), although it’s not a must. You’ll also find some more unusual flavours depending on the season, including things like San Marzano tomato gelato!
But there’s also another reason this place is so famous: the Caffè Speciale, created by Mario Campanella himself. Back in the 1960s, his Greek friends challenged him to make his own amaretto using sweet almonds. So he did – and then went a step further, adding it to coffee with a bit of lemon zest.
As I’m already a HUGE fan of coffee with amaretto, it didn’t take much convincing, and it was so good we ended up coming back later the same day. It’s light, slightly sweet, with just a bit of citrus, and somehow works even though they serve it hot on a summer day.
They also serve cornetti, pasticciotti, and other pastries, and there’s even a dessert dedicated to each member of the family, which I thought was such a cute touch.
You’ll also notice the walls covered in celebrity photos. We didn’t recognise any apart from Domenico Modugno, but it’s clear this place is a favourite with both locals and famous people. We loved it so much I would’ve happily gone back for a third round if I had any room left!
Pescaria
Just one street over from The Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella, you’ll find Pescaria, which is such a good spot for lunch in Polignano a Mare.
They focus on seafood, but you’ll find it in all sorts of forms – from grilled fish and tartare to salads, panini sandwiches, and even fish and chips.
If you’re not sure what to order, I’d recommend checking their menu online in advance. They have it in English, and it really helps. When you get there, there’s usually a queue and a big menu board in Italian above the counter, so it’s quite hard to decide on the spot.
Their signature is the panino with tuna tartare, stracciatella, and basil pesto, which is what we ordered – and I’d definitely recommend it. I’m obsessed with basil pesto, and it works so well with the tuna in a freshly toasted bun.
We also tried sgagliozze, fried polenta cubes that are popular in Puglia. I liked them, but I’m glad we only got one portion to share, as they’re quite plain.
They also have a great drinks selection. You can try different wines or beers from their own brewery – I went for the Salina beer made with seawater, which was definitely one of the most unusual ones I’ve had.
If you know me, you’ll know I’m not usually a fan of fish or seafood, but this place really surprised me. I’d happily go straight back next time I’m in Polignano (they also have branches in Rome, Milan, and Trani).
Other restaurants in Polignano a Mare
If we had more time in Polignano, we’d also love to stop by Caruso Gelateria for ice cream, La Focacceria Delle Noci Marco for focaccia, or La Casa Del Mojito for different flavoured mojitos.
And you’re probably wondering about the famous Grotta Palazzese restaurant…
While planning our trip, I looked into it quite a bit, and a lot of reviews described it as a bit of a tourist trap – somewhere people go for the view and photos, but not necessarily for the food.
It’s also worth knowing that they only offer fixed menus. At the time, prices were already well over €200 per person, depending on whether you added a wine pairing. And for that kind of money, I expect it to be one of the best meals I’ve ever had – not just a pretty setting.
So we decided to skip it this time.
However, our boat tour guide (who also works there as a waiter!) told us they had just brought in a new chef a month or two before our visit. Martino Ruggieri is a Puglian chef who earned two Michelin stars at his restaurant in Paris in under two years, so there’s a good chance things have changed.
At the moment, prices range from €250 to €300 per person, plus €180 if you go for the wine pairing.
If you do decide to go, I’d love to hear what you think. And if we make it back to Polignano, I’ll definitely update this section!
How would you spend your perfect day in Polignano a Mare?
