Lisbon Travel Guide: Best Things to Do, See, and Eat

Lisbon doesn’t really need a lengthy introduction. As the gateway into Europe for travellers coming from North America – plus a popular European city break destination – it’s busy all year round. Still, it took us a while to finally visit, mostly because there weren’t any convenient (or, let’s be honest, affordable) flight connections from where we’re based.

I’ve got to be brutally honest – it wasn’t exactly love at first sight. After coming down south from Porto, Lisbon felt way more chaotic and less authentic.

On our very first evening, we stumbled upon a scene where a bunch of men kept sticking buckets into the faces of people just trying to enjoy their dinner outdoors, hoping to make a quick buck. And if I thought the hills in Porto were a lot to handle? Oh sweet summer child, you had no idea what was coming.

But as we figured out which places were worth visiting – and which ones we were better off skipping – we slowly started to rediscover Lisbon’s charm. And somewhere along the way, I actually started falling for the city.

So, I decided to put together this guide, covering everything I learned before and during our trip. You’ll find tips on how to get around, how to save money on tourist attractions, the best things to do in Lisbon and, most importantly, where to find the very best pastéis de nata in the whole city. 😉

How to get around Lisbon

Even though Lisbon’s city centre is pretty walkable, I’d still recommend getting a public transport pass – for a couple of good reasons.

First, some of the attractions on my list, like Belém Tower or Jerónimos Monastery, are quite far from the centre and not really reachable on foot.

Second, Lisbon’s hills are no joke. There were times we had to climb up a hill just to walk back down to get where we were going. So while Google Maps might say something is 10 minutes away, the terrain can make it longer – or just a lot more exhausting, especially if you have any mobility issues.

Third, when you buy a pass, some attractions you’d normally have to pay for are included! You can ride the Santa Justa Lift and the city’s funiculars completely free, and there’s even a ferry route you can use. If you’re planning a day trip to Sintra or Cascais, you can also get a pass that covers the return train journey.

And of course, one of the most popular things to do in Lisbon is hopping on the iconic tram 28, which takes you through some of the city’s most historic neighbourhoods.

If you’re only after a single journey, you can just tap in with your card. But for 24-hour passes, you’ll need to buy them at a metro station.

Tip: If you’re a football fan and find yourself passing through Alameda station, make a quick stop at the Benfica shop. When we were there, you could spin a wheel of fortune for €2.50 – everyone won something, and prizes ranged from merch to memberships to guided stadium tours. Not sure if it’s a permanent thing or just seasonal, but definitely worth checking if it’s on!

Check the accommodation availability and prices for your dates below:

Best things to do in Lisbon

Praça do Comércio

I’ll be honest – this area of Lisbon wasn’t exactly my favourite, as it sits right in the thick of all the tourist chaos. But it’s one of those places that’s hard to avoid, even if you’re just passing through, and I thought it was worth including to give a better understanding of the city overall.

Praça do Comércio is the big square that faces the harbour. Back in 1755, a massive earthquake pretty much flattened Lisbon and the surrounding areas. When they started rebuilding the city, they replaced the old maze-like medieval streets with a grid-style layout – wide, straight roads and big open squares, like this one.

The idea was to improve traffic flow, make the city easier to navigate, and reduce fire risks. They even built earthquake-resistant buildings, which was pretty ahead of its time. These had wooden frameworks hidden inside the walls that could flex during tremors. And to commemorate the city’s recovery, they built the Rua Augusta Arch at the end of the square.

This square became the heart of trade and power – ships would dock here and goods flowed in and out of the city. Even today, you’ll probably pass through it as a transport hub: you can catch the tram to Belém from here, and there’s a ferry terminal that takes you across the river. Tucked under the arches, you’ll also find the city’s oldest café, Martinho da Arcada, which has been operating since 1782.

Belém Tower

Belém Tower is one of Lisbon’s most iconic landmarks and played a huge role in the country’s history. Built in the early 1500s, it was originally designed to guard the entrance to the city’s harbour and quickly became a symbolic gateway to Lisbon.

This was during the so-called Age of Discoveries, when European countries – especially Portugal and Spain – were sending ships beyond the continent in search of new trade routes, territories, and riches.

This little fortress was often the last thing sailors saw as they set off on months-long voyages – and one of the first things they saw when they finally returned (hopefully with spices, gold, or at least some cool stories). It soon became a symbol of adventure, exploration, and Portugal’s golden era of navigation. At one point, it also served as a prison.

Nearby, you’ll also find the Monument of the Discoveries, which celebrates this period in Portuguese history. You can go inside both for a fee, or simply admire them from the outside – like we did.

And just a short walk away, you’ll find the bakery that created the original pastéis de nata… but more on that later. 😉

Jerónimos Monastery

Right across the street from Belém Tower, you’ll find another famous landmark: the Jerónimos Monastery.

It’s known for a couple of reasons. First, it was built to celebrate Portugal’s success during the Age of Discoveries. It actually stands on the spot where Vasco da Gama and his crew prayed the night before setting off on their voyage to discover the sea route to India. He’s also buried here, and his tomb is one of the main attractions.

Second, the architecture is absolutely stunning. You’ll spot intricate carvings of ships, sea monsters, ropes, and tropical plants. The style is called Manueline – Portugal’s own mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and maritime influences.

I really wanted to go inside, but the queues were unbelievable. They wrapped all the way around the building – and trust me, the monastery complex is massive. Apparently, they strictly limit the number of visitors inside at any one time, so you can’t enter until others leave. Hopefully we’ll have better luck next time, because it would’ve taken us at least an hour just to get through the door!

LX Factory

If you can, I’d highly recommend combining your trip to Belém with a stop at LX Factory, as it’s right along the same tram route. It’s a 19th-century industrial complex that used to house a textile factory and other facilities.

These days, it’s one of the trendiest, most creative corners of the city – home to a mix of independent shops, restaurants, bars, co-working spaces, and event venues, all set against the backdrop of the iconic 25 de Abril Bridge.

There was even a hostel, and the bee on its façade reminded me of the rabbit sculpture we spotted in Porto – as well as a few other animal sculptures I came across in Lisbon. I wonder if they’re all by the same local artist?

Some of the restaurants had great lunch deals when we visited, but honestly, it’s just a fun place to stroll around and soak up the vibe. It reminded me a bit of the 100cznia and Elektryków complexes back home in Gdańsk – only bigger.

And once you’re there, if there’s one place you absolutely shouldn’t miss, it’s this next one…

Livraria Ler Devagar

I do love a creative interior – and even if you’re not in the mood to buy books (or you’re on a self-imposed spending ban), this independent bookshop is such a fun place to explore.

You’ll find both new and second-hand books in a range of languages, and it also doubles as a library, an art gallery, a record shop, and a coffee shop – all spread across four floors.

It was even named one of the 10 most beautiful bookshops in the world, and honestly, I can see why – the whole space is completely Instagrammable. With books lining every wall right up to the ceiling and wooden sliding ladders you can actually use to browse the collection, it’s the kind of place where everyone can find something to love.

Livraria Bertrand

Portugal really is the place to be for bookworms – did you know the world’s oldest operating bookshop is right here in Lisbon?

Livraria Bertrand is now a Portuguese chain with nearly 60 branches across the country, but the original shop at Rua Garrett 73–75 in the Chiado district dates all the way back to 1732.

Surprisingly, the interior feels more like a modern bookshop than an old one (so if you’re expecting something along the lines of Porto’s Livraria Lello, you might be a bit underwhelmed). Still, it’s well worth a visit for the novelty of stepping inside the world’s oldest bookshop.

If you buy anything, you can even ask the staff to stamp your book as proof you got it there. They’ve got both English and Portuguese versions of the stamp – or you can ask for both!

Lisbon Oceanarium

The Lisbon Oceanarium is one of the best in Europe – and not just because it’s one of the biggest (though yes, it is huge). What really makes it stand out is how it’s designed.

Instead of splitting everything by region, there’s a massive central tank you can see from different exhibition rooms. It gives you this amazing feeling of being out in the open ocean, with different species swimming directly above you.

Surrounding the central tank are habitats representing the Atlantic, Pacific, Indian, and Antarctic oceans. I especially loved watching the penguins – if you’re lucky, you might catch a feeding session. There’s also a little guide on the wall explaining how to tell them apart by the colour of the bands on their feet.

Watching their personalities come out – the way they interacted with each other or behaved around the keepers – was honestly so entertaining. One of them was a particularly anxious swimmer, terrified of jumping into the water, and seeing the others cheer him on was just heartwarming.

You can also pair your visit with a cable car ride over the river. And if you use the code OCEANTAP15 at checkout, you’ll get 15% off your Oceanarium tickets – not sponsored, just something I stumbled upon and thought was worth sharing to help save a bit of money!

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

If you’re after some panoramic views of the city, I’d definitely recommend this viewpoint. It’s tucked away in the historic Alfama district, close to other landmarks like Lisbon Cathedral – and if you’re taking the iconic 28 tram, it stops right outside.

When we visited, the weather was pretty grim, with dark rain clouds rolling in. That didn’t seem to put anyone off though – it was still packed! So, if you’d prefer to enjoy the views in a bit more peace and quiet, I’d really suggest coming as early as possible. Unsurprisingly, it gets super busy around sunset.

Santa Justa Lift

The Santa Justa Lift connects the lower neighbourhood of Baixa with Carmo Square. And if it reminds you of a certain Parisian landmark, you’re not imagining it – it was designed by a Porto-born engineer who just so happened to be a protégé of Gustave Eiffel. A one-way ticket costs €2.80, or €5.30 for a return.

Now, full disclosure – if your main goal is just to avoid the climb and you don’t have any mobility issues, I wouldn’t bother. The queues can get ridiculously long, and the lift only holds around 20 people at a time. Honestly, you could probably hike up and down (maybe even twice) before making it to the front of the queue.

Here’s a shortcut: head to Rua do Carmo, turn right onto Rua Garrett, then right again onto Calçada do Sacramento (you’ll see signs for Largo do Carmo). Just before the Carmo Convent, turn right onto Travessa Dom Pedro de Menezes. A short staircase at the end will lead you to the terrace and footbridge at the top of the lift. It only takes about five minutes.

That said, if you’ve got a 24-hour public transport pass, the lift ride is included – so you might as well make the most of it. It’s a historic attraction in its own right, and the views over Lisbon are fantastic. There’s also another viewpoint at the very top that you can access for an extra €1.50 (not included in the pass), but it was closed when we visited.

Take the ferry to Cacilhas

If you’re buying a 24-hour public transport pass, you can go for a version that includes ferry travel too. We initially went to the wrong terminal – just across the street from Praça do Comércio – and it turns out those ferries aren’t included in the pass. That said, the building itself is absolutely stunning, so I’m still glad we ended up there by accident!

The ferry to Cacilhas departs from Cais do Sodré station, which is about a 10-minute walk from the square. That side of the river isn’t particularly packed with sights, but the crowds seem to completely disappear. We really enjoyed just wandering around in peace – something that rarely happens in central Lisbon.

Oh, and if you follow the main road leading up from the terminal, there’s a brilliant vintage shop on the right-hand side called Retro Queen. Highly recommend having a browse!

Ride the city’s funiculars

Lisbon’s funiculars are part transport, part tourist attraction – and such a fun way to get around the city’s steep hills.

There are three in total, and the most famous is Elevador da Bica. It squeezes through a narrow, charming street lined with colourful buildings, which makes it easily the most photographed of the bunch.

It runs from 7 am to 9 pm on weekdays, and from 9 am on weekends. If you’re hoping to get some nice photos, I’d definitely recommend heading to the upper station as early as possible – before the crowds start to gather.

Then there’s Elevador da Glória, which connects Rossio Station to the Bairro Alto area and drops you off near one of the city’s best viewpoints: Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This one runs a bit later, until around midnight. While you’re in the area, take a walk around Rossio Square – it’s a great spot for people-watching (and keep reading to find out why the Zara shop nearby is a must-see!).

Elevador do Lavra is the oldest of the three, and while it’s less visited, it still has loads of charm and gives you a more local, off-the-beaten-path feel.

If you’ve got a 24-hour public transport pass, all the funiculars are included – so I’d definitely recommend hopping on at least one!

Walk around the Alfama district

Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhood – and one of the few areas that survived the 1755 earthquake, so walking through it really does feel like stepping back in time.

It was once the heart of the Moorish city, and later became a working-class district home to sailors and fishermen. These days, it’s been heavily gentrified, with trendy restaurants, boutique hotels, and holiday rentals popping up. But you’ll still find locals who’ve lived there for generations, and it hasn’t lost that old-world charm.

You’ll also find some of the city’s top sights here, including the Sé Cathedral, the National Pantheon, and São Jorge Castle, which towers above everything with unbeatable views across Lisbon.

You can easily reach Alfama on the famous 28 tram, or just walk over from the city centre – most of the main sights are within easy walking distance.

Listen to some traditional fado music

Fado is Portugal’s traditional soul music – deep, emotional, and often a bit melancholic. It’s usually just a singer, a Portuguese guitar, and a whole lot of raw feeling, with lyrics about love, longing, and life’s hardships.

Fado likely started in the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts, which are still the top spots to experience it today. You’ll find plenty of restaurants and bars offering nightly shows, often advertised on handwritten signs outside.

Some places let you book a table for a decent price – but if you know where to look, you don’t have to spend a cent. A Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto is a local favourite, where you can hear live Fado in a tiny, intimate setting for the price of a drink. It’s also where Anthony Bourdain went when he visited Lisbon!

You used to be able to book a table, but these days, you’ll need to queue outside – ideally well before it opens. The show started around 8:15 pm when we went, and it was split into a few short sets with breaks in between. If someone leaves after a set, you might get lucky and grab a spot.

So, if you don’t mind queuing and possibly standing at the bar while you wait for a table to free up, it’s a great way to enjoy live Fado without spending much.

Otherwise, you can always book a Fado show below:

MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology

MAAT is one of Lisbon’s newer museums, opened in 2016. Its aim is to explore how art, architecture, and technology intersect – and how they shape the way we live now and in the future.

But that’s not actually why I’ve included it in this guide. The real reason? The building itself sits right on the riverfront and has a wavy rooftop that you can walk on – even without a ticket to go inside. It’s the perfect spot to catch the sunset over the 25 de Abril Bridge, and best of all, it’s completely free!

Go on a day trip to Sintra, Cascais, and Cabo da Roca

Finally, if you’ve got a bit more time to spare, one of the top things to do in Lisbon is take a day trip to the nearby towns of Sintra and Cascais. Once you’re there, it’s super easy to pop over to Cabo da Roca – the westernmost point of continental Europe.

There are loads of operators offering guided tours, but it’s also really simple to plan it all yourself. I’m currently working on a handy step-by-step guide to help you do just that, and once it’s ready, you’ll find the link to it right here.

Best restaurants to try in Lisbon

Best breakfast and brunch restaurants in Lisbon

Honest Greens

Honest Greens is a chain of restaurants across Spain and Portugal (with more countries coming soon!) that’s all about showing healthy eating doesn’t have to break the bank.

Their focus is on fresh ingredients from local producers – think seasonal veg, free-range eggs, and pastries made without refined sugar. Whether you’re veggie, vegan, or just fancy something a bit lighter, there’s loads to choose from.

We popped in for breakfast on our first morning, as we were staying nearby, and I instantly fell in love. The space was bright, airy, and stylish – perfect for a relaxed start to the day. Honestly, if I had one near me, I’d probably be there all the time.

I went for a breakfast burrito and a red velvet cupcake, while my boyfriend ordered the wild mushroom toast and one of their protein balls.

I feel like a lot of places equate healthy or veggie food with safe, boring choices – so I loved how they prove you don’t have to compromise on carbs or cake. And with prices that are actually reasonable, I’d highly recommend checking it out!

Nicolau

This is one of the trendiest breakfast and brunch spots in all of Lisbon – and for good reason. It’s perfect if you’re not a morning person, as they serve brunch all day long. Just a heads-up though: it gets very busy with both tourists and locals, so I’d recommend getting there as early as you can.

You’ll now find their restaurants in Lisbon, Porto, and Cascais, and I love the little backstory they’ve created around each location.

They present each spot as a dog with its own distinct personality. So, you’ve got Nicolau, a distinguished aristocrat with German roots and Brazilian influences; Amélia, his elegant girlfriend with a fabulous pink hairstyle and secret garden; Basilio, Nicolau’s well-travelled bohemian cousin and coffee exporter; and Olívia, who specialises in Middle Eastern and Asian flavours.

Nicolau is a traditional breakfast and brunch café, where you’ll find all the classics – think various toasts, pancakes, eggs, granola, and some hearty comfort bowls. Naturally, I had to try the red velvet pancakes, along with their avocado toast with beetroot spread.

We actually went back another morning, and I had the Nicolau-style eggs – poached eggs on avocado toast with chilli flakes.

I could easily have gone back a few more times and found something new I wanted to try, so if you’re a fan of breakfast staples, I couldn’t recommend Nicolau enough.

Also… how adorable are their sugar packets?!

Amélia

Nicolau’s beloved decided to open her own brunch spot a bit further from the city centre, in the Campo de Ourique area.

The menu is very similar to Nicolau’s, with just a few changes and additions. So unless you’re curious to see how they’ve switched up the decor or added some new dishes, I wouldn’t necessarily go out of my way to visit.

I’ll admit it was the dog story that won me over – that, and the red velvet cookie they had on the menu (which sadly wasn’t available that day, but I did get to try it on another occasion 😉).

Amélia also has a lovely outdoor patio, ideal for making the most of sunny Lisbon days. That, along with the leaf-covered walls inside, makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a hidden garden.

I had the fluffy toast with scrambled eggs and caramelised bacon, which was another firm favourite of mine. The only downside? We visited a bit later in the day, so everything took longer – from finding a table to placing an order and actually getting our food. So, I’d definitely recommend showing up early!

Breakfast Lovers Misericórdia

You’re definitely spoiled for choice when it comes to breakfast in Lisbon, but my main selling point of this place is that they let you order mini versions of some of their dishes.

I’m the kind of person who has to have something savoury for breakfast. Sweet options always tempt me, but I usually skip them because I know I won’t manage two full meals. Plus, my boyfriend and I often want to try completely different things.

Nicolau was the exception, of course – because how could I say no to red velvet pancakes? (Or red velvet anything, really. 😉)

So if you’re anything like me, this place is an absolute game-changer.

I had the mini version of their pancakes with scrambled eggs, bacon, and maple syrup, followed by a mini açaí bowl. The portions were just right to keep me full until lunchtime, and the prices were totally reasonable too. So if you’re someone who can never decide what to order because everything sounds good – problem solved!

Dear Breakfast

The final breakfast spot we visited in Lisbon was Dear Breakfast. It was easily the busiest of all the places we tried – we had to wait in quite a long queue, even early in the morning. That said, you can make a reservation on their website if you plan ahead.

The queue moved fairly quickly, and the Chiado branch is on such a picturesque street that we didn’t mind the wait. You’ll often see the iconic tram 28 winding its way up and down, which makes for a great photo op. If you’re lucky enough to snag a window seat (we weren’t, but it didn’t matter), you’ll also get some lovely views.

I had some pancakes with fried eggs, bacon, avocado, and coriander on top. I know this is controversial, but I personally love putting ungodly amounts of coriander on my food, so I’d happily add way more! They also had a great offer, where you could get a pastry of your choice, granola, eggs, tea of coffee, and a juice or smoothie for €15, or €24 with a brunch plate instead.

Best cafés and pastry shops in Lisbon

Pastéis de Belém

Now, onto the question on a lot of people’s minds… Where do you get the best pastéis de nata in Lisbon?

The most famous – and by far the busiest – place is Pastéis de Belém, where this iconic Portuguese dessert was actually invented.

Back in the early 1800s, right next to the Jerónimos Monastery, there was a sugar cane refinery, complete with a small general store. When the monastery was shut down in 1834, someone sold the secret custard tart recipe to the shop owners to keep the tradition alive.

They began baking the pastries in 1837 using that very same recipe, and to this day, it’s a closely guarded secret – apparently only known by a handful of master pastry chefs who make them in a “secret room” inside the bakery.

Here’s the key detail: while you’ll find pastéis de nata all over Lisbon (and the rest of Portugal), only the ones from this shop can legally be called Pastéis de Belém. They trademarked the name – so everywhere else just sells nata.

You’ll often see huge queues wrapping around the building, but don’t let that put you off. There are two separate lines: one if you want to sit inside, and one for takeaway. When we visited, both moved surprisingly quickly.

The tarts were fresh out of the oven – and if you get them to go, you’ll receive little packets of cinnamon and icing sugar to sprinkle on top. If you’re in the area, I’d absolutely recommend stopping by for a taste of the original.

Manteigaria

But if you don’t fancy going all the way out to Belém, don’t worry – I’ve got you. My hot take? As long as your tart isn’t pale, you’re probably in safe hands. We tried loads during our trip, from pastelarias to regular cafés, and honestly, we didn’t come across a bad one. Still, there were some we liked more than others.

If I had to pick my favourite pastéis de nata in Lisbon (yes, including the Belém ones – let’s not get wrapped up in technicalities), I’d probably go with Manteigaria.

Unlike Pastéis de Belém, Manteigaria is a more recent addition to Lisbon’s pastry scene. It opened in 2014 but quickly built a reputation for exceptional custard tarts. Their original location is in the Chiado district, at Rua do Loreto 2. It took over what used to be a butter shop – manteigaria literally means “butter shop” – and still has a gorgeous Art Nouveau façade.

Inside, it’s more of a standing bar – there are no tables. You can do it the way locals do and enjoy your tart at the counter by the open kitchen. We had so much fun watching the pastry chefs at work – it genuinely felt like a little attraction all on its own.

As for the taste, I can’t quite put my finger on why I liked these tarts best. Both were perfectly flaky on the outside and creamy on the inside. All I know is… I’d choose them again in a heartbeat.

Zara by Castro

Another strong contender for the best pastéis de nata in Lisbon is Castro. And while we didn’t make it to their standalone pastry shop, we did get to try them inside the Zara at Rossio. Yes, you read that right!

Zara recently opened their second-largest store in the world right on Rossio Square, and it includes a stunning café with painted ceilings and shelves perfectly stacked with pastry boxes and coffee cups. You can stop in for a break after shopping – or just wander in for the tarts. No one checks, I promise. 😉

A lot of locals swear by Castro as the best place for nata, and I can see why – I absolutely loved the pastry shell and even went back for seconds on the spot!

A Brasileira

A Brasileira is one of those cafés you’ve just got to pop into while you’re in Lisbon. It’s right in the heart of Chiado and has been serving coffee since 1905.

Adriano Telles originally opened it to promote Brazilian coffee – he used to hand out free cups to encourage locals to give it a try – and it quickly became a popular meeting spot for intellectuals and artists.

Inside, it’s all dark wood, mirrored walls, and that gorgeous vintage charm. It’s the perfect place to stop for a bica (Lisbon’s take on espresso, which actually got its name right here) and maybe a pastel de nata if you fancy something sweet. Just a heads-up – it’s very touristy, so you might have to wait during peak hours.

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Honestly, Lisbon has so many incredible coffee shops that I could probably dedicate an entire trip just to trying them – and still wouldn’t make it through them all!

Some other spots we had on our list but didn’t get around to visiting include Hello, Kristof, Cafe Janis, Dramático, Heim Cafe, Seagull Method, Fauna & Flora, and Hygge Kaffe.

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Best restaurants and bars in Lisbon

Vegan Junkies

I’m kicking off this part of the guide with what was hands down the find of our entire trip. It’s rare to come across a place that feels like your friendly local after just one visit – but this was totally it.

The waiters were so lovely, it was easy to forget we hadn’t actually been going there for years. And the food? Even better. It was so good, in fact, that my meat-loving boyfriend made a point of complimenting the chef – and even suggested we come back again. I feel like that tells you everything you need to know.

I’d highly recommend starting with the loaded nachos to share – I was nearly full before the burgers even showed up! With so many healthy vegan spots in Lisbon, it’s nice to have a go-to place for proper vegan junk food too.

I also loved the burger names – each one inspired by a hip hop classic, which gave me a good laugh. And the drinks menu? It pulls out like a vinyl from a sleeve, and I was honestly tempted to keep browsing just for the fun of it!

Bonjardim

Portugal is all about cod – bacalhau in Portuguese – but since I only eat fish fillets, I went for the next best thing.

Another Portuguese speciality is piri-piri chicken – roasted chicken marinated in piri-piri sauce or drizzled with spicy oil. The star of the show is the piri-piri chilli: tiny, fiery peppers originally from Africa that were brought to Portugal centuries ago.

I’ve been going to Nando’s for years, so I had a pretty good idea of what to expect in terms of heat and flavour – and I couldn’t wait to try the real Portuguese version that inspired it. That’s how we ended up at Bonjardim, a spot that specialises in exactly this dish.

You could tell they’d tried to squeeze in as many tables as humanly possible outside – it almost felt like we were dining with the German couple next to us. That aside, I really enjoyed the experience – especially the honesty of our server, who wasn’t trying to upsell us, but actually told us to order less because of the portion sizes. I’m not even a huge fan of roasted chicken, but I polished off every last bite.

We also ordered a pastel de bacalhau each to make up for the fish part – these are cod fritters and make for the perfect bite-sized snack.

All in all, don’t expect fireworks – it’s literally just a chicken place. But it’s a good one.

O Trevo

Another Portuguese snack you have to try on your trip is the bifana. It’s a simple sandwich made with thin slices of pork cooked in a garlicky white wine marinade, usually tucked into a crusty white roll.

The exact style varies by region – the northern version tends to be spicier and saucier, while the southern one is more stripped-back and dry. You’ll usually get some mustard and piri-piri oil on the side so you can season your bifana exactly how you like it.

You can grab one at a local tasca (a casual eatery), from a food stall, or at a festival. It’s the kind of no-fuss, delicious snack you might demolish after a night out, or grab on the go for a quick lunch. In Lisbon, the classic go-to spot is O Trevo – it even got the Anthony Bourdain seal of approval, so you know it’s legit.

You place your order at the counter and, if you’re lucky, snag a spot at one of the long shared tables. We paid at the end, and I honestly found it so impressive the server remembered our order given the constant flow of people.

It was so moreish we went straight back for seconds, and I’d highly recommend washing it down with the tinto de verano they’ve got on tap.

I love that something this simple has become a bit of a tourist attraction – it just goes to show that food doesn’t have to be fancy to be amazing. And even better, you’ll still see loads of locals enjoying it alongside the tourists.

Time Out Market

I was a bit hesitant about including this place in my guide – let’s be honest, it doesn’t exactly need the publicity, and there are plenty of smaller spots that do.

That said, I have to admit – it’s the perfect place for a meal in the city centre. It’s right next to Cais do Sodré station, and with so many restaurants under one roof, it’s ideal if you want to try a few different things, or if you’re with a group that can never agree on where to eat.

It also gave us the chance to try one of the spots that had been on our list but was a bit too far out – O Prego da Peixaria. As the name suggests, they specialise in prego – the Portuguese version of a burger, made with beef steak instead of minced meat. You can also get versions with fish, crab, or prawn. We both went for the Teddy Boy, served in traditional Madeiran flatbread (bolo do caco), and I’d highly recommend it.

For dessert, don’t miss Funky Chunky Cookies – their cookies are perfectly crisp on the outside, chewy in the middle, and absolutely addictive. This is actually the same place that makes the red velvet cookies for Amélia (remember those?), so of course I had to order one – along with a few other flavours. They were all heavenly, so no regrets!

Ginjinha Sem Rival

One of the traditional Portuguese liquors you have to try is ginja (or ginjinha). It’s made by infusing sour cherries (ginja berries) in alcohol, sweetening it with sugar, and often adding a touch of cinnamon or clove. There are plenty of places to try it, but one of the go-to spots is Ginjinha Sem Rival. The name literally means “Ginjinha without a rival” – so they’re pretty confident in their skills!

Once you’re there, you might also come across a lesser-known liquor called Eduardino. It even comes with a fun little legend to explain its origins.

Apparently, there was a famous Italian clown named Eduardino. Every time he was performing in town, he’d stop by this very place and ask for a bit of liquid courage. But instead of ordering a standard drink, he’d get them to mix different types of liquors together. He’d down the mixture and then head off to make people laugh.

Eduardino is a blend of ginja, anise, and other aromatic herbs. The shop itself is tiny, but you can order a shot of each and take them outside to enjoy at one of the standing tables. It’s a fun little experience – and we loved that there’s a whole story behind it (even if they don’t advertise it anywhere)!

Pensão Amor

If you’re into unique cocktail bars, this one – set in a former brothel – definitely ticks that box.

Cais do Sodré was once Lisbon’s grittiest red-light district. Back in the day, it was full of sailors, seedy nightlife, and not-so-subtle pleasure houses. Pensão Amor was one of them, and you can still feel that sultry, decadent energy in the walls.

Fast forward to 2011, when the neighbourhood started cleaning up its act, and a group of creatives transformed this former house of love into a bar-meets-burlesque-den. Think velvet drapes, damask wallpaper, old books, risqué art, antique furniture – and yes, a pole right in the middle of the room, where they host weekly pole dancing shows.

More recently, they’ve added Madam’s Lodge – a boutique hotel upstairs, with rooms inspired by the women who once worked there.

It’s definitely a one-of-a-kind place, and I’d recommend stopping by for a cocktail. From there, you can also walk straight out onto Lisbon’s famous Pink Street, with even more restaurants and bars to explore.

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So, there you have it – my complete guide to Lisbon, Portugal! Which of these spots would you most like to visit?

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